I am more of an LGT man, as you noticed, but learning new things everyday.

I have been getting more into the older tractors, (61-71). But i dont come across them as much. But, once i do i will try and post a page on them also.


Well, lets start with this, lets not call it an automatic transmission. Those are in cars and trucks, and they have clutch bands to turn a main shaft.

Those clutch bands work like a wet clutch. So certain oils have friction modifiers in them, to make the bands stick. 

Your (light duty) EATON 11 HYDROGEAR in your 72-83 FORD JAKE made machine is a hydraulic pump. So  i use a universal tranhydraulic oil, like a farm tractor uses. Not saying that there isnt a friction modifier in there, for certain apllications, just going by what the manufacture says. It looks more like a oil than tranny fluid. Look to the image to the left, printed out right from Eaton.

Now i know im gonna hear this, " I ve been using  TYPE F for years , and never had a problem." 

" I have used , 30w and never had a problem either."

Ok, good for you, those Eaton 11 are damn near foolproof and bullet proof.

I just recommend what they say and its cheaper by the 5 gallon

Just because someone has been doing something for years, doesnt mean its right,  look at the U.S. government, they have been at it for 200 

I have had tractors come in with autotranny fluid in them, and leaky seals, several times. Coincidence ??? It maybe that they are just old, but if i have to replace it, why not put in what they say???

By the way


EATON 11 REBUILD KIT-$425.00(maybe more been a while since ordered one)


Here is the  oil recomendation from the manufacture in the 70's, from the original manual of the tractor.


= universal trans hydraulic oil

NOTE: pre 1972 tractors, 71 and older, are not LGT tractors. They did have a sunstrand hydro pump, which took "type f" AUTO tranny fluid. Big  difference.


Your EATON 11 hydro gear is a limited slip differential. At low speeds its a posi, mash on the forward pedal and its open differential.

TEST..take a chain and a tree on wet grass.. and slowly dig some let the wife catch ya!


YES, they actually welded the engines to the frames from 1972 to 1975.  Crazy you had to reach under neath and unbolt the block from the oil pan.

Then halfway through the 1975 year they used a shallow pan, and a different axle bracket. Where the engine was bolted to the frame through the oil pan. Some call it a 1st generation and 2nd generation tube frame. But the 2nd gen frame was in 1977 with the close sided LGT's.

ANYHOW, i have a 1975 and 1976 Ford LGT 125 with non welded oil pans. But i have seen a 1975 with a welded oil pan. So.....there ya go. 


In 1972 only, did the "LGT" tractors have white steering wheels, Hard plastic, non rubber style like the 73-83. But, i think there was leftover from the previous years?, they used different style columns, So i dont know? Not totally sure, but if you have a 72 with a black rubber wheel, it would not suprise me, i would imagine it  would be a later production tractor. But then again, the hard plastic wheels had a tendency to break, I ve sold several black wheels for the 72-76 Jakes.


They  made two.

 A 42" CUT, that  the deck measures 50"

A 50" cut that the deck measures 59" many people get confused. You can swap decks also, they all fit all the LGT series tractors. So you could put a 50" cut deck on a LGT 100, i dont recommend it but it would attach just the same.

Hubs/spindle assemblies, 3 types.




Mosts decks are 6 bolt aluminum hub, I am not 100% sure when they did the switch or model specific???A old 4 bolt flange hub, will fit a newer style  6 bolt flange aluminum hub deck. Swapping decks is easy ,so who knows,what is, what on what tractor?

Oh yeah, throw those diverting dishes, throw them away too. Unless your restoring and not mowing, all they do is collect mud ,dirt water and rust  and ruin the spindle. Plus it makes a pain in the rear to grease the hubs. MY two cents, take it for what its worth.

more good stuff....

My first Tractor, that started the whole disease. 1965 Bolens Husky 1000. Thanks Uncle "DALE"

Steering columns

OK so you have your 72-76 LGT, and one day your mowing along, and ...UH OH. The steering wheel spins but the tire dont turn.

Good chances you broke the main steering shaft. Possibly the worm gear pin is broke, thats the easy fix. Lets stick with the main shaft. 

I have stainless steel shafts turned to replace these. You will need them welded in. You have to weld on the outside, not the inside like so many people do. Then the gasket doesnt seat, the weld holds the shaft out farther, and you can never get it tightened right. 

Or...replace the column with a 77-83 style. Now it may be a rumor, but i heard everything doesn't wear out or break as easy on the 2nd gen tube frame tractors. Well that's what i put in my front loader, and never had a problem since. So take into consideration, what you want and what you are doing with your machine. Now you will have to drill and tap the side of the newer style column, to accommodate the old style bracket. I sell complete columns ready to go. Shoot me an email or give me a call for availability, and questions. I also rebuild steering columns, if anyone is interested.


From 1961-1971 the Jacobsen built tractors were known as the "Angle" frame tractors

1972-1983 were "Tube frame" tractors.

No someone did not weld the engine in the frame, factory welded them in the frames from 72-75 1/2.. It was part of a stream line casting process. They casted the oil pan and axle retainer all in one piece.

"Thats silly you can never get the engine off"???

Wrong, dig a little bit and you will find the answer. They unbolt from under neath. Yes under neath the frame is 4 oil pan bolts. It is different, but it works and makes a strong tractor.


                     PULLING TRACTORS

Does a Ford make a good pulling tractor? It depends on what type of pull? Sled pull? not really, unless its a strict stock class. 

Ford/JAC are heavy tractors, compared to the Popular Cub cadet. A Ford weighs in around 700lbs without a deck, where a cub is around 600. Now take a 200lb driver, and your not even making weight, in the 12 hp class, let alone trying to shift weights front to back to make it pull better. Now i guess you can put it in the big class, 1100 -1200 lb. class, But your gonna have to swap engines. And i dont recommend using the Hydos, use to much power.   The PEERLESS gear drives are wonderful tranaxles, and heavy duty, in fact seen more cub rears let go than the Peerless. You would need to tear it apart and make it a posi also, the open differential , isnt your friend, when it comes to pulling. Then they are belt drive, so to speak, you loose a little power there also. When you pull a belt drive, in the bigger higher horsepower class them there are issues with slipping.

Most people use cub cadets,because they are cheap, easy to find, have a good trans axle and are light weight, much like Chevys are to racing or truck pulling. Cheap racecars.Look on Craigslist , and there must be 20-30 cub cadets for sale daily. Even the "RARE" cub cadets are always popping up around here. 

I would hate to see someone cut up a good Ford for pulling, when there are so many cubs out there. Even if you swap out to a cub rearend, its no longer a Ford?? But to the eye is their own. It would be like taking a 69 Mach 1, Fast back, Shelby GT 350 or Boss 429,and cutting it up to go circle track racing.  Again my opinion. You can easily find some old tins to modify to put on your cub, if you really want a Ford. I n fact call me i got plenty of hoods laying around

Now a dead weight pull is a different story. I would highly recommend the Old FORD with a good Hydro. I have pulled logs out of the woods that i should'nt be with my front Most dead weight classe are 1000lb. and up, and horsepower is not the key. You can add weight brackets to the rear and mid belly, dont need too much on front on the Fords, but depends on the weight class. Make sure your hydro is strong, resurface the charge pump plate on the Eaton 11 make sure your gear and balls(LOL!!! cant help it )are good. New oil and let her rip tater chip. 

I guess it all depends on where you live, what type of tractor pull it is, and what the classes are. So i guess, a Ford would make a good puller, just not around my area.











PLEASE DONT ...ask me this


No... I WONT. First off i am not an appraiser. What one is willing to spend on a tractor, another will not.

Some tractors are a dime a dozen in some areas. Western PA, for an example, you can find 10-25 Cub cadets, 20 Wheel horses on just Craigslist at any given time.

Even the rare most sought after Cub cadet 86 or 800, ive had em and sold em, just to see another pop up a few weeks later. Fords,  Jacobsen, about the same, you dont see them much around here. But lets say Michigan or the Midwest, or Canada, is a different story.  

But it's RARE, DUDE!  OK, define "RARE".... versus, highly collectable. Steaks are "RARE", Chevy CITATIONS from the 80's,are very rare, so are AMC EAGLES...get my point???

Its all about LOCATION, and my and demand.

and....IT'S only worth what one is willing to pay and what one is willing to sell it for.

One person's idea of a clean "barn find"(oh i hate that phrase anymore) maybe a big pile of dog turds to another.  What one may call "RESTORED" may be a "rattle can, hack job" by another. a nutshell, If you like the tractor, buy it, life is too short not to enjoy it. If your buying one just to flip it and make serious coin, ...haha, yeah ok, that's why i still have a full time Seriously it's a hobby, remember that!!

But,if it makes you some extra money to take MAMA Bear out for supper... Than get er done son, cause sooner or later shes gonna get tired of seeing the tractors out